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 Mount Everest, often termed as the Third Pole, depicts the highest point on the planet and scaling it is the ultimate dream of all the mountaineers the world over. The South Col route from Nepal is frequently used to scale the Everest. Even non - mountaineers with the help of guides and sherpas take the same route. Till date about 1250 people have scaled the Everest and mostly all the ascents have been from the South Col (Nepal) or the North Col (China). Everest has 14 well-defined routes to the summit, out of which only one (East Ridge) is yet to be explored. The Southwest and North face route are considered to be the most challenging, being sheer granite walls and mixed ice flutings. In 2001, the Indian Army climbed Mt. Everest via the South Col route, placing one officer and several OR's on the summit. Then in a joint undertaking with the Royal Nepal army, the Indian Army climbed the Everest in 2003 to commemorate the Golden Jubilee of Mt. Everest. However, no Indian Armed Force team or Naval team from anywhere in the world has ever attempted to mount the Everest from the North, considered the most difficult and technically challenging route.
Indian Navy and Mountaineering. The sport of mountaineering to the Himalayas has always been a part of the Navy. The Indian Navy has produced one of the all time greatest Indian Mountaineers in Capt. MS Kohli (Retd) who eventually went on to lead one of the most successful Indian Everest expedition in 1965 that put 9 climbers at the top of the world. He also led a successful Navy expedition to Nandankot in 1959.That was the last major expedition undertaken by the Indian Navy.
It's now, after a gap of 43 years, that the Navy has again revived the sport of mountaineering in a major way, in order to inculcate and develop the qualities of physical robustness, moral courage, endurance and team spirit, all the requisite elements for the men in uniform and to attempt Mt. Everest in 2004.
A series of mountaineering expeditions have been undertaken by the Navy recently to build up the team for the Everest. The Navy scaled the extremely technically challenging and hitherto unclimbed peak of Suithilla (21,000 Ft) in Kumaon hills during September - October 2002 followed by Kamet (7756 m) and Abi Gamin (7354 m) during May - June 2003 and Saser Kangri IV (7410 m) in September 2003, thus proving its capability to climb high and technical peaks.
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Objective of the expedition
Attempt Everest from the North -The Indian Navy summited from Tibet. Scaling the Everest from the proposed Tibet route had the following advantages over the traditional South Col route from Nepal;
(a) Much more technically difficult and challenging
(b) Opportunity to create a new route and a mountaineering world record
(c) Easier and quicker approach to base camp
(d) Much more economical due to reduced peak royalty charged by China
Target Records
The expedition to Mt. Everest achieved the following mountaineering records: -
(a) First Indian Armed Forces expedition to climb Mt. Everest from the North side
(b) First ever All Naval Team attempt of Mt. Everest in the world
(c) First Indian ascent of Mt. Everest without supplementary oxygen
Route and Duration
 Expedition Route-The Defence Minister Mr Goerge Fernandes flagged off the Expedition from Indian Naval submarine Sindhuraj at a depth of 45 metres below sea level off the Goa coast. On this occasion the Defence Minister presented the national flag, Naval ensign and an ice axe to Cdr Satyabrata Dam, the leader of the team. Admiral Madhvendra Siangh, Chief of Naval Staff was also present on the occasion. Thereafter, the team proceeded via Kathmandu to Tingri (Tibet), crossing the Nepal - Tibet border at Zangmu. The base camp was established at the snout of the Rongbuk glacier at 1700 ft. and is reached by road from Tingri. The advance base camp is located at a height of 20,300 ft.
Duration - Mt. Everest is generally attempted during spring (March - June) or in autumn (September - November). Spring being warmer and less windy attracts majority of the expeditions. This period is considered to be ideal for Everest. The overall duration from Base Camp to Base Camp is expected to be 62 days.
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De-Induction from Everest - The team will be de-inducted through Lhasa, which involves two days of road journey at almost the same level. The altitude reduction and introduction of the team to heavier atmosphere will be taken in different phases and in a controlled manner thereby preventing medical problems. A stay of four days has been recommended at Lhasa. After completing some formalities with the various agencies involved in supporting the expedition, the team will return to New Delhi.
Team Composition
Expedition Leader - Cdr Satyabrata Dam (03313 B) is leading the expedition. He is an internationally renowned mountaineer and has 29 major Himalayan peaks to his credit, in 28 years of his mountaineering career. Cdr Dam has led several national and international mountaineering expeditions in the past and has conducted many seminars, talk shows and mountaineering film festivals all over the world. He has also climbed extensively in the Alps and other major mountaineering ranges in the world and is closely associated with some of the world's key mountaineering and adventure organizations, including the Himalayan Club, the Indian Mountaineering Foundation, the American Alpine Club, the Japanese Alpine Club, and the National Geographic etc.
Members - Cdr Satyabrata Dam personally selected the team based on their performance during the series of expeditions that the Indian Navy had undertaken in 2002-03.The team had 9 climbing members and a support team of 4-6 (who did not climb beyond the Advance Base Camps). More about the members of the team....
Route Reccee and Support Arrangements - The expedition leader will carry out a reccee of the Rongbuck Glacier and select the site for Advance Base Camp and the route to the North Face for the summit attempt.
Summary
The challenge of scaling the Everest today is not just its astonishing height but also charting a new technically challenging route, which the Naval Expedition achieved. The Indian Navy has never made an attempt to summit Mt. Everest through the north face, though Captain MS Kohli (Retd) had led the successful Everest expedition in 1965, when 9 members of the team reached the summit.
In this savage arena of Himalayas, the loftiest summit of Mt. Everest demands the utmost worth of a man in terms of physical endurance, mental strength, courage, team spirit, leadership, determination, a never say die attitude, grit and resoluteness. An Armed Forces personnel is primarily trained and tasked to inculcate and display all the above traits while facing the enemy at war. The Mt. Everest expedition will only further reinforce the spirit of the Indian Armed Forces across the globe.
Indian Navy Makes History Today - 18 May 04
Indian Navy's Mt. Everest Team sets many new records - 20 May 04
Message from the Chief of the Naval Staff
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